School of Culture and Communication - Research Publications
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ItemPractices of cultural collectivity: Style activism, Miromoda and Maori fashion in Aotearoa New Zealand(INTELLECT LTD, 2021-06-01)Familiar narratives of fashion history in Aotearoa New Zealand recount the successes of Pākehā (New Zealand European) designers who have forged a distinctive fashion industry at the edge of the world. This narrative overlooks the history of Māori fashion cultures, including the role of ‘style activism’ enacted by political figures such as Whetu Tirikatene-Sullivan and collectives such as the Pacific Sisters who advanced the status of Māori and Pasifika design in the twentieth century. It also ignores the changing nature of the New Zealand fashion industry today. One of the most significant recent initiatives to alter perceptions of fashion in Aotearoa New Zealand has been Miromoda, the Indigenous Māori Fashion Apparel Board (IMFAB), established in 2008. By championing the work of Māori fashion designers and prioritizing the values of te ao Māori (the Māori world-view), Miromoda is successfully contributing to the ‘decolonization’ of the New Zealand fashion industry. This article foregrounds practices of cultural collectivity, including that of style activists such as Tirikatene-Sullivan and the Pacific Sisters, and Māori fashion designers such as Kiri Nathan, Tessa Lont (Lontessa) and Bobby Campbell Luke (Campbell Luke), to explore the expansion of a more affirmative fashion future in Aotearoa New Zealand.
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ItemFashioning founders: Dress and gender in the entrepreneurial ecosystem(WILEY, 2021-07)Abstract This article considers how entrepreneurs' fashion themselves as founders. Based on ethnographic research conducted in Australia, we discuss whether the informal dress codes of the startup world neutralize gender differences. Our findings suggest that informal dress codes reinforce the normative positionality of men as archetypal entrepreneurial actors. They reinscribe gendered hierarchies that affect the everyday entrepreneurial experience, and extend distinctly different allowances for nonconformity and unconventionality to men and women. Founders attempt to inhabit these gendered inequalities, performing a kind of esthetic labor that mobilizes their appearances to play into as well as counter the gendered expectations of the ecosystem and extract value from their personal and professional fashioning.
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ItemEthical fashion is confusing: even shoppers with good intentions get overwhelmed( 2020-11-25)We interviewed consumers about ethical fashion choices - they were well intentioned but overwhelmed. There are, however, some good sources of information for conscious shoppers.